Dec 13, 2012

We had gone to the workshop of a blue calico in Nantong.

Nantong blue calico is a traditional folk printed-dyed handicraft in China. During the Song dynasty, blue calico was called “Yaoban Cloth”, and during the Ming dynasty, it was called “Jiaohua Cloth”. The process was said to be invented by a local people surnamed Gui in Jiading. Nantong is the major producer of blue calico. Quantities of dyeing and weaving workshops once spread all over the rural areas in Nantong, with abundant homespun and natural bluegrass resources. Blue calico is usually used to make daily clothes, quilt covers, mosquito nets, pillowcases and bags. Patterns printed on blue calico are plain and elegant, and usually bear auspicious connotations. They are mostly originated from animals and birds, trees and flowers, as well as from myths and legends, such as bat (homophone for happiness in Chinese), fish (homophone for wealthy in Chinese), Lion Rolling the Ball, and Carps Jumping over the Dragon Gate. On May 20, 2006, the dyeing skill was included in the first China's National Intangible Cultural Heritages list, approved by the state council.

三月中的时候去了蓝印花布厂。借用“草木染”小组贴的蓝印花布制作工艺的简介:

制作工艺主要的工序有四道。

一、纹样设计和花版制作
用点、线、面结合成纹样,然后用纸刻成花版,最后用熟桐油油漆晾干。


(花版有阴刻和阳刻,样式繁多。下图为制版间,右边垂挂的本白棉布为染色前的底布)


src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-1.jpg

二、漏版印花(俗称‘拷花’)
把石灰和黄豆粉加水拌和成印花防染浆,漏刮在织物上,待七天期的阴晾干燥,才能染色。
 

(制作防染浆的房间)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-2.jpg

(中间和下部一小片凸起的蓝色纹样,为防染浆漏刮在棉布上、染色后的效果。周边白色花的为防染浆已经刮掉的情形)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-3.jpg

 

三、植物染料染色
用‘蓝草’植物的色素,制成染液,在室温下进行多次染色。一般浅色染3-4次,中色7-8次,深色10次以上。

(蓝浆料)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-4.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-5.jpg

(染液,蓝黑色)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-6.jpg

(染房)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-7.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-8.jpg

 

四、刮花子及清洗
染色后的蓝印花布经晒干或烘干,用刮刀刮掉防染浆层,然后用流水多次清洗,洗尽浮色。”

(刮花,地上是刮下来的防染浆粉末,有豆粉味)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-9.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-10.jpg

(左边那条未刮,右边已刮)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-16.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-11.jpg

(在乌镇拍的正在晾晒的蓝印花布)

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-13.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-14.jpg

 

src=http://897cloud.com/cic/data/crafts/nantong-blue-calico/blog/74/p83562624-15.jpg

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